We hope you enjoy our guide to Single Vehicle Approval. We have tried to make it as easy to understand as possible and have written it in plain English. We start off with some basic frequently asked questions and also detail what is tested, and then we guide you through an SVA form, showing you how to fill it in correctly and maybe give you a few pointers. Finally we have a list of the current SVA test stations.

WHAT IS SVA?

SVA was introduced to regulate the building of new or rebuilt vehicles being used on the public highway. As such it would inevitably have an effect on the kit car industry in the UK. Mainstream manufacturers products are subject to type approval at a cost of round £300,000 and the government decided there had to be a similar, less expensive system for component car manufacturers.

WHEN DID SVA START?

It started in 1998 and since that time any kit that is intended for road use (with a couple of exceptions) is subjected to the SVA test. (Kits that retain the original vehicles unmodified chassis are not required to have a SVA test provided the chassis has not been modified in any way.

WHAT IS INCLUDED IN THE TEST?

As follows: Anti-theft, demisting, wipers, seats, seat-belts, interior projections, radio suppression, glass, lighting, mirrors, tyres, doors, exterior, steering, design and construction, brakes, noise, emissions, projections, speedometer and weights.

1.      Anti-theft device This simply checks that the vehicle is fitted with a functioning steering lock, or similar device to prevent the vehicle being driven away or moved under its own power. An item such as a battery “ kill switch “ will meet the requirements.

2.      Defrosting / Demisting This checks that the vehicle is fitted with a working system capable of defrosting and demisting the windscreen to allow the driver an adequate view of the road. Ducted, heated air systems (with fan assistance) or embedded electrical elements in the windscreen are acceptable.

3.      Windscreen wipers and washers This checks that the vehicle is fitted with a working system capable of automatically clearing and cleaning the windscreen to allow the driver an adequate view of the road. Wipers must park so as not to obstruct the field of view and washers must pass a low pressure test.

4.      Seats and Anchorages This is a check that all seating positions are firmly attached to the vehicle structure. This test is also used in conjunction with the seat belt test, where a seat belt is integral with the seat.

5.      Seat belts and Anchorages This is a comprehensive check of all seat belts and the anchorage points fitted to the vehicle, including the correct heights in relation to the seat base. Any modifications to the anchorage point will have to be supported by evidence that they now comply with seat belt legislation. The test also checks that the correct number and type of belts are fitted (this is not true for an MoT, where only the maintenance of the belt is checked)

6.      Interior This is a check that the interior surfaces of the vehicle do not have any dangerous roughness or 'sharp edges’ due to their exterior shape or design which are likely to be contacted by the vehicle occupants.

7.      Radio Suppression This checks that the vehicle is fitted with radio interference suppression equipment (only applicable to petrol engines)

8.      Glazing This checks that the driver has an unobstructed view of the road forward of the vehicle. It also checks that all glazing is to the correct standard. Markings can only be applied by the manufacturer, not a glass agent.

9.      Lighting / Signalling This checks that the vehicle is fitted with the correct lights and indicators. They must be positioned correctly, have the correct number, be of the right intensity and must be visible through a range of angles, known as the angles of visibility and meet all current lighting regulations.

10. Mirrors A simple check that all obligatory mirrors are fitted, functional and allow the driver the correct field of vision to the rear of the vehicle.

11. Tyres This checks that vehicle is fitted with the correct tyres and that they meet all applicable legislation.

12. Doors, Latches and hinges This checks that vehicle driver and all passenger entrance and exit doors are capable of being securely latched in the closed position.

13. Exterior projections This is a check that the vehicle exterior does not have any 'sharp edges' that may cause further injury to a pedestrian when in collision with the vehicle.

14. Protective steering This checks that the vehicle is fitted with a steering control that provides adequate protection from injury to the driver during normal driving in the event of a vehicle frontal impact.

15. Vehicle design and construction This checks all aspects of the design and construction of the vehicle or its equipment such that no danger is caused or likely to be caused to any person in the vehicle or to other road users. This covers the chassis, suspension and steering systems.

16. Brakes This is a full assessment of the vehicle braking system including a brake evaluation to the vehicles maximum capacity (as opposed to the MoT test, where the braking is checked to its minimum standard). The front to rear balance is checked to ensure that the front brakes lock first, in all braking conditions.

17. Noise This checks that vehicle is fitted with a working and secure exhaust system. The noise level is checked and must not exceed 101dbA

18. Emissions A check of the vehicles exhaust emissions to a level similar to current MoT standards, dependant on engine age. The vehicle presenter will be required to show documentary evidence to prove the age of the engine. If evidence is not available the engine will receive a Catalyst emission test.

19. Speedometer This checks that vehicle is fitted with a working and accurate speedometer (not checked during an MoT)

20. Design weights A check that the vehicle is operating within is design weights (especially critical where a vehicle has been fitted with extra seating positions). This weight is not the actual weight of the vehicle, but the maximum the vehicle will be expected to carry, including passengers and luggage.

A common SVA myth is that lamps, mirrors and tyres MUST be “ E marked “ in order to pass the SVA test. This is because the SVA manual does state that this is the case. However, it then goes on to state, that providing the item has the same characteristics to that of an “ E marked “ item, that is also acceptable.

A full SVA manual is available at a cost of £37 including P&P from –

Publications

VOSA
91-92 The Strand
Swansea
SA1 2DH

Or over the counter from any SVA test centre.
(Cheques payable to "VOSA")

DOES IT COST ANYTHING FOR A RETEST IF I FAIL?

Yes it will cost you another £32.00

IF I GET A MAC CERTIFICATE I WON’T NEED AN MOT WILL I?

After a lot of arguments and deliberation, you will NOT need an MOT as well
as a MAC - UNLESS you build a kit car that keeps the donor's registration (and
then you won't need the MAC anyway!) To keep the donor's registration, you
need to use its ORIGINAL and UNMODIFIED chassis or monocoque bodyshell. If
you do this, you won't need an SVA but you will need an MOT. In all other
cases (i.e. a kit built from all-new parts or a kit using some donor
components but not the complete donor chassis/shell) you will NOT need an
MOT for the first three years.

CAN I HAVE IT DONE AT THE SAME TIME?

Check with the station you intend using, as unfortunately only a few test centres are now able to offer this service for you.

CAN I GET MY CAR REGISTERED AFTER THE TEST?

Yes, but you will have to follow slightly different procedures depending on whether you want a "new" or an "age-related" registration.

If you want a "new" (current) registration number, you will have to ensure that your car is built from entirely new components OR has only ONE major component from the DVLA’s list that has been reconditioned to an AS NEW standard. You will need to be able to show all the receipts to prove this. Assuming you’ve got these, you will then need to fill in a "V55/4" form available from your local Vehicle Registry Office. They also produce a booklet (a "V355/4") on how to complete the V55/4. Besides these, you will also need:

The First Registration fee (£25)
Money for Road Tax (6 or 12 months)
Your Minister’s Approval (SVA) Certificate
A valid Certificate of Insurance
Either a "Declaration of Newness" (form V267) Or a declaration of newness from your kit supplier.
A declaration or receipt from the reconditioner if you have used one major reconditioned component.

If the car is "donor-built" (which the DVLA call a "kit conversion") the procedure is similar but not quite as difficult. You will need to complete a "V55/5" form (as opposed to the V55/4 form for a new registration) and you will also need:
Money for Road Tax (6 or 12 months)
Your Minister’s Approval (SVA) Certificate
A valid Certificate of Insurance.
MoT test.

You will also be asked to fill in a form in which you state where each of the major components (i.e. body, chassis, engine, transmission, axles, suspension, steering) came from. You get three choices – either "bought new", "from donor" or "other". If you claim a particular major component was bought new, you will need to show a receipt. If you claim it was from the donor, they might want to see a copy of the old logbook or, in the case of a non-identifiable component, inspect the vehicle and if you claim that enough major components were "other", you will probably get a "Q" plate.

Registration is a very complicated area so we will be producing a more detailed article including some sample forms in the near future. Watch this website for further details.

SO HOW LONG WILL I HAVE TO WAIT FOR THE TEST?

Depending on where you have your car tested it could be anything from 1 to 10 weeks.

YOU SAID THERE WERE EXCEPTIONS WHAT ARE THEY?

Currently three wheelers under 410kg and vehicles that retain an unmodified donor chassis.

I’VE JUST BOUGHT AN OLD SECONDHAND KITCAR; I’LL BE OKAY WON’T I?

Hmm, well if your vehicle is correctly described on the V5c document as exactly what it is rather then the donor then yes you are okay. On the other hand if it’s described as the donor vehicle, you will find yourself subject to SVA. This can be very problematic because SVA is only open to the actual builder of the car using the Amateur Build category. If you have not built the vehicle yourself, then major problems are possible, due to the stricter requirements of the alternative categories available. It should be remembered that “Amateur Built” is not a reference to the ability of the builder, but a legal statement of the vehicles status within the Type Approval regulations.

THE SVA FORM. 

Click small images to view full size forms:
Example SVA App. form.  Part 1 & 2.	Notes for completion of  SVA App. form.
	(NB: See help notes below)

Notes for completion of the SVA Application form.

The SVA test application form has changed considerably since it was first introduced a few years ago. The form now takes up five pages plus the completion notes) but a fair amount of information is redundant for the amateur builder.

Above you will have seen a completed specimen form and outlined below, are a few points to be read in conjunction with the notes on the application form. The numbers refer to the question numbers on the application form.

Q1. VIN. On mass produced cars in the EC there will always be a 17-character number starting with three letters – the "World Manufacturer Identity". The rest of the characters are used to denote model, variant, assembly plant and whatever other information the manufacturer desires. As far as the amateur builder is concerned, VOSA will accept ANY reasonable combination of letters or numbers comprising more than 8 characters, although the standard 17 digit number is always preferred. As an amateur builder, you might have been assigned a number with the kit or you might have to make your own up. Make sure you choose a combination not likely to be repeated by someone else – for example "00000001" will be unlikely to satisfy VOSA. If your choice of number is not acceptable, you will be asked to obtain a number from DVLA.). These numbers always start "SAB****" and consist of 17 characters. The only drawback of such numbers is that these are the series the DVLA usually allocate to re-shelled mass produced cars so the police often concentrate their searches for stolen vehicles on these cars. We’re not saying it will happen but you might get more than your fair share of attention from the local constabulary if awarded one of these!

Q2-7. These questions are pretty self-explanatory. The second choice of SVA station is rarely used but the more notice you can give them the better. It is worth noting that you can apply to Swansea for your SVA test, well in advance of the required test date. Once your application has been received and forwarded to the nominated Test Station, it is then your choice as to when the test is conducted (within reason). However, should you submit your application and there is a problem, you will not be able to have a SVA test until your application has been approved. You can always call the station you’re thinking of using and ask what the waiting list is like for amateur built cars. If it’s very long you will have to book a long way ahead or choose another test centre. You book directly with the test centre once your application has been approved at Swansea HQ. Another point to bear in mind is that some centres will carry out tests outside normal working hours for an additional charge. The price for a standard SVA test is £158 (and an out of hour’s appointment is £225 where available).

Q8. The vehicle category is very important in determining the emissions test criteria. ALL (Amateur built vehicles) will be category "A". This applies even if the same type of vehicle is available in fully built form from the manufacturer. As far as you, the manufacturer and VOSA are concerned, ANY kit where you have undertaken "a substantial part of the build" OR "persons acting on your behalf who do not build cars as a business" have built it for you, is Amateur built. The definition of "a substantial part of the build" is for the purpose of SVA, the majority of the construction of the vehicle. Finishing another builders project will not qualify as Amateur built.

Not all the kit car manufacturers will be aware that VOSA tends to take the opportunity to contact every amateur build applicant for an SVA Test. When VOSA Head Office at Swansea receive an SVA application form for a Category "A" vehicle they automatically send the applicant a short questionnaire to fill in and a declaration to sign. This questionnaire asks them to confirm that either they or the manufacturer assembled various major components onto the chassis/body.

It would be worth bearing in mind that VOSA doesn’t generally regard a vehicle that has had the major components fitted to the body/chassis by the manufacturer as being amateur built. If you send the form off having stated that MORE than 2 major components were assembled by a professional, VOSA will insist that the kit is tested either as a category "L" or "C". This could lead to tougher emissions standards than you envisaged!

Q10. does not apply to amateur-built cars.

Q11. Is self-explanatory.

Q12. The answer to the first part of this question relates to the date you presented the car for test, it does not relate to the date you bought the kit.

Q14. This question is of huge importance to an amateur builder. It tells VOSA what emissions test to carry out on your car. If your car uses an engine from an older vehicle, you must give the date the engine was first built. The emissions test will then be carried out on your car as if it was built in the same year as the engine. In the case quoted in the example, this was 1982.

Please be warned that VOSA will ask for PROOF of the engine’s age. In the vast majority of cases, a copy of the UK registration document showing the engine number in your donor car will suffice, provided the engine number is original and matches the document exactly. This is true even if the engine came out of a bike. If you haven’t got this, you will need some other form of acceptable "documentary evidence". The best thing would be a letter on the engine manufacturer’s letterhead stating the age of the engine. In some cases you might be able to get a generic letter stating that "…engines with numbers starting "ABC123 (for example)" were manufactured between (say) 1980 and 1982". If this is the case, VOSA will assume that the engine in your car has been built on the latest date quoted so make sure the range quoted in the letter doesn’t straddle an emissions test changeover date! Whatever means of proof you choose, the onus is on YOU, the presenter, to convince the tester of the engine’s age. Failure to comply will result in you failing the SVA test!

Some builders get their engines reconditioned to an "as new" standard in order to get a current ("new") registration from the DVLA. Remember VOSA doesn’t care about this so do not give the date of manufacture as being the date it was reconditioned. If you do, you’ll end up having to do a catalyst emissions test!

Finally, if you cannot prove the engine’s age, you will have to do a catalyst emissions test!

Q15. None of this question applies to amateur-built kit cars.

Q16. If at all possible, it is best to obtain the design weights from the kit manufacturer. VOSA mainly uses these to carry out the brake test and tyre inspection so your manufacturer ought to be able to provide data that will ensure a pass. If you have built the car substantially differently to the way stipulated in the build manual (e.g. an engine option not covered by the manufacturer) you will have to provide your own weights but be sure that the car’s structure is capable of carrying the extra weight, as this will be assessed during the test!

Basically, the "Design Weight for axle 1" is the maximum weight that the front axle can put on the ground when the vehicle is fully loaded. Similarly, that for axle 2, is the maximum permitted rear axle weight. When you go for your SVA test, you must ensure the fuel tank is full. If you want to obtain your own weights, you can do this at any public weighbridge (see your Yellow Pages). Remember to obtain a front axle weight (with the car empty but full of fuel), a rear axle weight (with the car empty but full of fuel) and then each axle again with 68kg in each passenger seat and 7kg for each passenger in the luggage compartment. DO NOT add (for a 2 seater car) 150kg and split this evenly between the front and rear axles because they will NOT necessarily carry the same share of the load! You should also allow an extra amount, because any extra items fitted to the car at a later date would take the vehicle over its design weight. The tester will weigh each end of the car empty and check that when he adds the weight of the occupants (68kg for each seat and 7kg of luggage for each occupant) neither axle becomes overloaded according to the weights you have declared. If it does, it will fail the test. It is worth noting that the Gross Vehicle Weight (the fourth box on the form) does not necessarily have to equal the sum of the axle weights. Obviously, it can never be more than the sum of the axle weights but it can sometimes be less. This simply means that you are not permitted to load both axles to their maximum weights simultaneously. The last box is only applicable if the vehicle is built to tow a trailer. If it is, this box contains the maximum permitted weight of the whole combination.

The Gross Vehicle Weight is used in the braking test. Basically, the maximum weights are used to check that the brakes can stop the car fully loaded and the unladen weights (plus driver) are used to check the balance between the front and rear brakes. As VOSA are effectively giving your car the "OK" by granting the approval certificate, they need to be sure that it won’t display any untoward handling characteristics (like the rear wheels locking before the fronts do) under any conditions. For this reason, they will want to check brakes under all conditions (especially if an adjustable brake bias bar is fitted).

Q17. This is the last significant question for the amateur builder. The declaration of maximum road speed is used mainly to check that the correct tyres have been fitted. In the example given, the car is capable of very high speed so a written declaration from the tyre manufacturer stating that it is capable of running at the stated speed and load will be required. Obviously for lower speed and load combinations, the load and speed code on the tyre sidewall will suffice.

The maximum power engine speed is used in the noise test. Currently, the noise test is a static test where the engine is run in neutral at ¾ of the speed at which it develops maximum power. If, for example, it develops maximum power at 6000RPM, the noise test will be carried out at 4500RPM. In cases where the presenter is not able to provide a realistic maximum power engine speed, the tester will use the default engine speed of 2/3 of the redline engine speed. This means that if the maximum permitted engine speed is 6000RPM, the test will be carried out at 4000RPM. A word of caution might be appropriate here, when it comes to cars with bike engines. These are capable of revving to huge speeds and this makes the noise test proportionately more difficult for such engines. A bike engine developing maximum power at 9000rpm would be tested at 6750rpm. If that same engine redlined at (say) 11,000rpm and the presenter didn’t quote a maximum power speed, the test would be done at 7333rpm. It is also worth noting that an unrealistic figure given as the maximum engine power speed will simply delay your application until you provide further documentary evidence in support of this figure.

Written by Ian Hopley, with contributions from Steve Hole.

Kindly updated December 2007 by Mark Vickers. Courtesy of VOSA.